This cookie collect user interaction data like clicks and impressions pseudonymously. This cookie is set by the provider Curalate. Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. This story is featured in the July 2022 issue of Los Angeles (Photographed by Shayan Asgharnia) Lucky guests snag seats at the counter and watch as pies topped with whole olives, anchovies, and garlic bubble in the oven. Providence alum William Joo tosses his own take on Neapolitan pizzas at this tiny storefront. Here, sushi-style fresh fish is served atop potatoes, and thick udon noodles arrive smothered in Peruvian pesto.ģ709 Sunset Blvd., Pizzeria Sei Ricardo Zarate’s Japanese-influenced Peruvian cooking now has a home in the heart of Silver Lake. New & Notable (PHOTOGRAPH BY JIM SULLIVAN) AsteridĪt chef Ray Garcia’s sleek new restaurant in the Walt Disney Concert Hall, California cuisine meets Garcia’s knack for cooking inventive dishes like sunchoke rosti and chicken liver mousse with pickled onions and oranges. “I can conceive and create and cultivate everything,” says Wynn, “But the food is the heartbeat.” But at its core, Kod is about the lively dining experience that chef Takahashi envisioned. “We have a lot of different elements that embody traditional Japanese artistry and craftsmanship that are sprinkled all across the space,” says Wynn. Cheesecake is soaked in sake and served alongside passion fruit sauce. A bulbous scoop of shiso -leaf gelato sits in a cup of mandarin orange, strawberry, and kumquat gelatin. The desserts by pastry chef Mami Yamamoto are not an afterthought. The combination of spicy roe, bright shiso, and sour cabbage awakens the palate. One of the most memorable examples of Kyoto-inspired izakaya food you might actually find in Japan is the Hakusai maki, which is spicy cod caviar in rice, wrapped in pickled napa cabbage and served with a shiso dressing. The off-menu toro is served with a tangy cilantro sauce, minced tomato, and cucumber, and has the kind of fatty melt-in-your mouth quality you can’t forget (nor do you want to). A Caesar salad of Little Gem lettuce is blanketed with bonito flakes, a revelatory addition. The food comes out fast and without pretense. “Yoya is from Kyoto, so he wanted to do something that wasn’t just all about morphing Japanese ingredients he wanted to stay true to what a fun, Kyoto-style izakaya would be”-that is, an upbeat vibe and traditional Japanese bar fare.Ī server offers bright green tea, which is soon followed by a cocktail like the mezcal “margarita” with yuzu, lemon, and stone fruit on crushed ice and sprinkled with lime zest. Izakaya are informal Japanese bars that serve small dishes along with alcohol. “He wanted to do a true izakaya,” Wynn says of Kod’s chef, Yoya Takahashi. The energy of Kod, which translates to “heartbeat” in English, is intentionally boisterous. But don’t be fooled by the restaurant’s visual tranquility. “The ones in the front are actually made from fermented persimmons called kakishibu ,” explains Kensho Group owner David Wynn, pointing to the delicate hanging cloth.Įverything about the space-from the calming gray booths to the stark black walls-is invitingly serene. Overhead, traditionally dyed, earth-colored Japanese textiles sway. On a Friday night at Kodo, the new restaurant in the ryokan-style Kensho Rykn hotel downtown, every seat on the minimalist patio is booked.
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